Eleuthera: Spanish Wells to Rock Sound

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At high tide Cheeks Patch is just a narrow strip of land beside us.

 

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Lower left hand corner indicates the Total Wind Speed…0.0 kt.

 

 

Not often does one see 0.00 knots of wind but this was what we experienced as we anchored by Meeks Patch near Spanish Wells. After a calm cruise from New Providence to Eleuthera it was a breath of fresh air to return to the peace and tranquility of a gorgeous anchorage after being in a marina. A beautiful day was followed by a colorful sunset. In fact, all of Eleuthera is quite colorful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed the colorful homes and lovely gardens in Spanish Wells. Even the lawn ornaments were colorful! I attempted to capture the blues of the water and sky through the hawse pipe in the featured image.  (Thanks for Lisa Smith on Privateer for the idea!)

 

 

 

Spanish Wells is actually the name of a town on St. George Island. One day we took the dinghy to Spanish Wells, took a water taxi to the island of North Eleuthera, rode in a speeding van taxi to another part of the island to catch yet another water taxi to reach Harbour Island! Whew! Locally, Harbour Island is shortened to Briland. Briland is the home of the pink sand beaches and upscale resorts, at least upscale for the Bahamas. We ate lunch at Sip Sip (Bahamian for gossip) and drove a golf cart around the town. We returned 2 hours earlier than planned as this island was a bit more busy and commercial than we desired. We enjoyed dining with Carol and Brian on Freedom at Wreckers and Shipyard, a couple we had met previously at Great Harbour Cay in the Berrys.  It has been such a pleasure making new friends!

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My 4 favorite conch shells collected from South Cistern Beach

 

 

While anchored outside of Spanish Wells we took 3 days to catch up on boat chores as it was breezy and wavy and we weren’t interested in getting wet on the dinghy ride to get to town. After 6 nights we moseyed on down to South Cistern Beach. Surprisingly, we were the only boat there. It was a great place to enjoy yoga on the bow and to go shelling on the beach.

 

 

The following day we headed to Governor’s Harbor. We went ashore one evening and enjoyed a lovely restaurant called Buccaneer Club in the center of town. Usually Scott prefers to be on the water but the outdoor patio was surrounded by trees and lush plants and had nice jazz music playing. Not only was the food delicious but the service was the best we have had in the Bahamas. Scott ordered the grilled crawfish expecting the small crawfish we see in the states. Instead he received a spiny lobster tail which was much better than I expected. We have heard that the spiny lobster in the Bahamas are not nearly as sweet as the lobster in the northeast but I thought it was quite tasty.

In studying the charts we have noticed that there a not a lot of anchorages in Eleuthera with good holding. In fact, one night we saw on the screen that we had dragged 39’. I had just started to prepare dinner when Scott realized the problem so he dove on the anchor to attempt to flip it over if necessary. To no avail, it just continued to slide so we pulled up and headed on south to Ten Bay Beach at 7:00 p.m. making for a late dinner.

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Glass Window, Eleuthera

Ten Bay Beach was known for shelling so we got up early to be on shore at low tide but there were no whole shells. Yes, there were lots of broken ones but no whole ones. After breakfast we headed to our southern most destination in Eleuthera, Rock Sound. Rock Sound is in a large harbor and is one of the few anchorages with protection from the west. Since westerlies and higher winds were predicted for the following day we decided to go early to get a good spot. We expected to see a crowded anchorage as everyone would want protection but there were very few boats. This was consistent with every where we had been in Eleuthera, few vessels and we were always the largest. Another observation is the lack of birds in the Bahamas, not only on land but in the water. We hadn’t seen cormorants, anhingas, herons, egrets or pelicans.  Hopefully, we can visit some preserves on land to see some of their beautiful indigenous birds.

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A lovely squid that “flew” onto the deck.

 

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Uh-oh…where did the water go? Due to the 2′ draft of the dinghy we had to anchor far from shore with the approaching low tide.

Rock Sound’s homecoming is Easter weekend so we will take time to explore the town and perhaps even rent a car to drive the entire island. A homecoming is when the people from all over the Bahamas come home to the town or island of their birth for a huge celebration. We are excited to experience the homecoming here as it is said to be quite the party!

 

8 thoughts on “Eleuthera: Spanish Wells to Rock Sound

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  1. It’s gloomy again here in ole Missouri. I needed your post today for some brightness. Love the colors..the homes, the art, the water…so much better than our once again gloomy windy ready to storm day. I hope you are both continuing to have the time of your lives on this great adventure. Thank you for taking me along with your prose and photos.

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    1. Thanks for coming along with us, Sherry! I know what you mean about the gloomy days, we had 2.5 overcast days which has been very rare here. It totally changed our moods when the sun came out the following day!

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  2. We spent 2 weeks in Eleuthera back in 2017 renting a house and car on Whale Point. Has become one of our favorite islands because as you pointed out, it’s just not that touristy. The fish fry on Friday nights in Governors Harbour is a great party! Check out lighthouse point before Disney starts construction down there.

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  3. The Queen’s Bath, walking all over the Glass Window getting pics of both sides, snorkeling through Current cut, the Blue hole in Rock Sound, a sandwich and beverage at Tippy’s. Mainly just exploring the different towns. Just watch out for the speed bumps, they can come out of nowhere!! It’s a really nice island and the people were wonderful once you got them talking.

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